Brick and Mortar Questions & Answers

Foundation Problems

2011-08-09T15:37:00.000-07:00

By: Danny Lipford

A major structural problem with your home is probably every homeowner’s worst nightmare. Structural problems left unattended decrease your homes value and only worsen over time. So if you are seeing signs of foundation problems around your home like cracks in your drywall, or if you have doors that do not open or close properly you probably need to have an evaluation done.

Is your home suffering from foundation problems?

If your home is exhibiting symptoms of foundation problems like cracks in walls, sticking and swinging doors, or uneven floors it may need foundation repair. Experienced professionals can give you an accurate analysis of your home and design a foundation repair solution.

Can you sell your house for a reduced price rather than repair the foundation?

If you are financing the sale yourself, this poses no problem. Loaning institutions generally will not close a loan without repairs being done or scheduled. However, beware as some state laws impose severe penalties for fraudulently concealing a structural problem from a buyer.

Is your home less marketable because you have had the foundation repaired?

Quite the contrary. If the foundation of your home is repaired by a reputable contractor it is considered stronger after the repairs are performed. Therefore, appraisal values will be the same, as if the problem had never developed. If you are planning on selling your home after the foundation repair work is performed the warranty from the contractor and their reputation are more important than ever.

Selecting a reputable contractor to repair you home

Finally, here are some important factors to consider before taking this daunting foundation problem on.

No Contract Labor – Make sure the people performing the repairs work for the company.
Financial Commitment – Does the contractor own or rent his equipment?
Supervisors on Site – Is the company large enough to provide full time supervision, or will the crew be dropped off at your home to do the work?
References – Make sure references are not hand picked.
Warranties – Warranties are only as good as the company that offers them. A reputable company who has been in business for at least 25 years should be your best bet.
Insurance – Ask for current insurance certificates.

When Your Home is a Brick Home

2007-12-26T12:40:00.000-08:00

A brick home is beauty you can bank on. That's because, unlike any other material, brick combines universal appeal with important economic benefits.
Brick instantly communicates those qualities that are most desirable in a home - permanence, warmth, and substance. Even from a distance, brick adds to a home's impact and distinction. Brick assures that, at first glance, visitors will consider the home more prestigious, more impressive. Real estate agents refer to this all important first impression as "curb appeal," and no material contributes more to a home's curb appeal than brick. This intangible, immediate response to a brick exterior - even when brick is used only on the front of the house - is not only flattering. It means enhanced resale value through the years.
Why do people react so positively to brick? Perhaps the answer lies in the inviting texture of brick or its obvious strength. Perhaps the answer is that brick is a natural, modular material, or that people can easily relate to its human scale. Whatever the reason, brick has elicited an almost instinctive, positive response in people for generations. And the end is nowhere in sight. The limitless variety and versatility of brick inspires new approaches and fresh ideas for architectural design daily. So whether you're more at home with traditional styling or the most innovative contemporary design, brick can make a unique contribution to your home's beauty.
Fortunately, brick is as economical as it is attractive. It costs only slightly more to build with brick than it does to build with other materials. And these initial costs, stretched out over the years of your home mortgage, are far outweighed by the ongoing savings and high appreciation only a brick home offers.
Brick Adds 6 Percent to a Home's Appreciated Value
Even if the home you are buying or building now is the home of your dreams, it is also a major investment. To assure the largest return on your investment, you'll want to consider your home's potential for appreciation and maximize its resale value.
According to Marshall and Swift's Residential Cost Handbook, a reference used by real estate appraisers, the appreciation of a brick home is on the average 6 percent greater than that of an identical home with a vinyl, wood siding, cedar, or aluminum exterior.
Real estate markets may fluctuate, but brick home always retain and increase their value at a higher rate than homes with other exteriors.
Brick Saves Money on Energy, Maintenance, and Insurance
Brick is one of the original energy conservation tools. Simply because of its mass, it prevents temperature extremes on the outside of your home from affecting the temperature on the inside of your home. This process is sometimes called "thermal lag," and it translates into greater year-round comfort and energy savings for homeowners. You'll need to use your air conditioning less in summer, and your heat less in winter. That's good news for the environment and your fuel bill.
Savings add up even faster when your consider brick's other unique qualities.
Brick is practically maintenance-free. Sit back and enjoy your home, no repainting or restraining required. In fact, the cost difference between building a brick home and a home covered in siding roughly equals the cost of a single repainting. You make up the difference, first time out. And you're fee to spend your weekends on good times - instead of on a ladder.
Yet that's not the only saving you can expect with brick. While homes covered in other materials can corrode, rot, split, warp, dent, or crack through the years, brick does not. It actually improves with time, no matter how strong the wind or severe the weather.
Brick also provides the ultimate peace of mind that comes with superior fire resistance. It is made of fired clay, so it serves as a barrier to fire as no other exterior material can. Insurance companies know how effective brick is: fire insurance rates on brick homes are generally lower than on other homes.
Brick is pest resistant too, so you don't have to worry about damage to your home or reliance on chemicals. And because of its mass, brick naturally insulates your home from outside sounds. It muffles noise from cars passing by, planes overhead, or townhouse neighbors, increasing the comfort and pleasure of your home.
The Best Looking Material is Also the Most Practical
The exterior of your home is one place you don't want to compromise. And with brick, it's one place you don't need to compromise. You get the look you want - affordable from the start, economical through the years, and most profitable when you sell your home.

Courtesy of the Brick Institute of America

Mold changes dream house into nightmare

2006-07-11T19:11:00.000-07:00

Homeowners, builders and insurance companies increasingly are wrestling in court.

By Chris O'Malley
chris.omalley@indystar.com Mary McKinstray (left) and her sister, Joan, were forced to abandon this $250,000 Carmel home. They say the house is infested with mold due to shoddy building practices.
The kitchen calendar reads January 2003. The clock on the stove perpetually flashes 12:00.
The day Mary McKinstray fled her $250,000 Carmel home and her possessions is frozen in time.
"My doctor said, 'If you value your life, never go in that house again,' " said McKinstray, a former Merck drug saleswoman who has moved into a spare bedroom in her parents' house.
In a lawsuit filed in April against Precedent Homes and the home's builder, Robert W. McKinney, McKinstray alleges her house in Precedent's Ashbury Park is contaminated with toxic mold that sickened her for months. The worst was a seizure that put her in the hospital overnight.
Precedent counters that environmental tests did not find any harmful levels of mold. McKinney "disagrees with the buyers' allegations that there is a mold problem in the home, or that the home presents any risk of harm," said his attorney, Joe Wendt.
Increasing public awareness of health risks from mold has homeowners checking baseboards and crawl spaces for signs of moisture. Some, like McKinstray, are filing lawsuits against builders who, they say, are unresponsive to homeowners' concerns.
One of the area's largest builders -- Trinity Homes -- and parent Beazer Homes Investment Corp. face at least two lawsuits from homeowners this year over mold concerns. The companies are tearing out and replacing brick in dozens of their newer homes.
Nationwide, the insurance industry estimates that 10,000 mold-related lawsuits are pending, up 300 percent from 1999. In 2001, a Texas jury awarded a couple $32 million for mold in their home, though the amount was later reduced to $4 million. Television personality Ed McMahon won a $7 million award from his insurance company over mold.
In Indiana, where insurance companies are not required to cover mold in homeowner's policies, builders often become the focus of litigation.
Homeowners, attorneys and home inspectors blame mold on sloppy construction -- particularly involving homes with brick walls.
Some point to the home-building boom that tempted busy builders, desperate for labor, to hire bottom-of-the-barrel masons and other subcontractors. Those crews often failed to allow for a sufficient air gap between brick and the outer wood sheathing. Overwhelmed municipal building inspectors couldn't keep pace with the construction frenzy.
Whether construction quality is worse than ever is debatable. But experts agree that mold-related health problems may be more common today because of tighter, energy-efficient designs that reduce ventilation.
"The mold issue -- every jurisdiction in Central Indiana is experiencing it," said Jeff Kendall, building commissioner of Carmel.
Who should be held responsible for mold and what health danger it poses increasingly are being fought over in court, as attorneys see mold as gold.
Precedent Homes, which arranged the sale of the home to McKinstray but did not build it, said an environmental testing service it hired determined that the mold was isolated and not hazardous.
"In addition to our own analysis, we received a copy of the mold assessment report by another reputable environmental firm hired by the homeowners, which concluded the indoor mold spore concentrations were in an acceptable range," Todd Fenoglio, president of Precedent Homes, said in response to the McKinstray suit.
McKinstray said it's just the opposite -- that the tests showed dangerous levels of the microtoxins aspergillus and penicillium.
Her suit in Hamilton Circuit Court alleges elevated levels of toxic-producing fungi in the air, on attic framing and on crawl space framing.
Problem starts with brick
The suit attributes crawl space mold to loose fiberglass insulation that transferred moisture onto floor joists. It cites an improperly installed vapor barrier and poor ventilation in the space.
The lawsuit also alleges inadequate caulking around windows and says mold in the attic probably stemmed from wet wood during construction.
While wood has allegedly caused problems in McKinstray's home, many mold complaints come from residents of new homes with brick exterior walls.
Not long after Frank Bireley and his family moved into their new home last year in Williamsburg Villages in Hendricks County, their 10-month-old daughter developed a persistent cough. It grew worse, and she was hospitalized. A specialist at Riley Hospital for Children made a link to mold.
Bireley's builder, Trinity Homes, hired a firm to assess the house for mold.
The problem was traced to bricks that were butted tight against a moisture barrier covering sheathing that is nailed to wall studs.
Bireley grew impatient this fall when he could not get an idea of when Trinity would make the repairs. "I also threatened to put a sign in my yard," he said. His home is near a new Trinity development.
He received a call from Trinity's law firm, which he said had sought his daughter's medical records. Bireley, who works in the legal department of a large insurance company, refused. He argued that the builder was placing itself in a precarious legal situation.
About a month ago, workers showed up at his house with hand-held jackhammers and tore out bricks where an environmental testing firm found moisture problems. "It looks like you could pick up our house and move it to Afghanistan," Bireley said.
So far, Trinity has been helpful. "We love the house," he added.
Hundreds of homes involved
Trinity, which builds 500-600 homes a year and is among the city's 10 largest builders, is facing mold complaints at several other developments in the area.
Last month, Christopher and Mary Colon filed a lawsuit in Hamilton Superior Court against Trinity and parent Beazer. The suit, seeking class-action status, alleges that improperly applied brick caused mold infestation at the Colons' 2-year-old home at Prairie Crossing in Noblesville.
The moisture problem potentially involves hundreds of Trinity homes in Indiana, said the couple's attorney, Richard Shevitz of Cohen & Malad LLC in Indianapolis.
The suit complains that Trinity has not offered to buy back mold-damaged homes in Prairie Crossing, despite doing so in its Brittany Chase development, where Trinity said it has bought back four homes.
The builder has not made buyback offers at other developments, including Arapaho Point, Huntington Woods, Spring Farms and Plum Creek, the complaint states.
Trinity responded in a statement Friday that there have been a number of refinements in its remediation plan, which it said was developed by a national expert.
"Remediation has been our goal and our practice from the beginning," the company said.
Meanwhile, Noblesville building inspectors responding to consumer complaints have sent Trinity a letter. It states that the company's homes under construction are subject to additional inspections -- both when bricks have been applied in the initial stages and again later, said Noblesville Planning Director Steve Huntley.
Residential building codes adopted by cities must be at least as stringent as those adopted by the state.
Generally, if the sheathing nailed to the outside of studs is "water-repellent," Indiana requires masons to maintain a 1-inch air gap between the brick and the sheathing. If the gap is less than 1 inch, a "weather-resistant" membrane -- such as asphalt paper or Tyvek wrap -- must be applied to sheathing that is deemed to be weather-repellent.
The codes were written because brick is porous and can become saturated with water.
But enforcement has been difficult because of the speed at which brick goes up and the limited number of inspectors.
"What sometimes happens is they have masons with varying degrees of skill that do not always maintain that air space. It's very difficult to camp an inspector out at a project when the brick is going up," said Carmel building official Kendall.
"You can go there one day and there's no brick at all. And then three days later, it's all covered," said Jerrold Hochstedler, a seasoned home inspector for CW Schnepf & Associates.
No state standards
When Hochstedler finds moisture problems, it's often because masons have not left an air space or don't wrap the wood sheathing in a barrier.
Another problem is when an air space becomes clogged with mortar, said Doug Wehr, president of Clear View Home Inspections. Mortar can pull moisture from brick into wood and drywall, especially if a vapor barrier is missing or damaged.
When inspecting a house under construction, Wehr takes a flashlight and looks for debris in the gap between the brick and the house. Conscientious masons will keep a rope laid horizontally in the space to catch falling mortar and pull it out, but hardly anyone does that anymore, he said.
Unless the problem is caught during the inspection process, homeowners might not notice it until they become ill.
Indiana has no legislation to set standards for mold exposure in homes. A House proposal to create a mold task force died last year in the legislature.
California's "Toxic Mold Protection Act," which became law in 2001, includes a study on adopting exposure limits for indoor mold. The law requires that guidelines be developed for removing mold and disclosing its presence when renting or selling property.
At least 10 other states have enacted or are considering mold legislation, according to the National Association of Mutual Insurance Companies.
One problem legislators and industry experts have encountered is that there are hundreds of types of molds, and they affect people differently.
"We've seen it . . . where it doesn't bother the husband, and the wife is having seizures," said R. Ross Williams, president of Artec Environmental Monitoring, an Indianapolis company that tests homes.
McKinstray said she didn't have breathing problems -- let alone asthma -- before moving in December 2001 from a rural area near Mount Vernon, Ill., to Carmel to be closer to her parents. At one point when she lived in the Carmel house, her doctor said she lost nearly 40 percent of her respiratory capacity.
"I had a bad respiratory infection within weeks. I always joked that in the drug industry, we never got sick," she said. At one point, McKinstray said, "I couldn't get out of bed for almost two weeks."
The first visual clue to a problem came when she and her sister, Joan -- also a plaintiff in the lawsuit -- were decorating. "The first picture we tried to hang, we sunk a molly bolt, and the drywall crumbled."
They also noticed shell fungi growing on a wood-siding wall in the back of the house.
Health hazard
McKinstray won't re-enter the house, and others also have been cautious. McKinstray shows a photo she took of a dry-cleaning company employee who arrived to assess the condition of her clothing. He was suited up in a chemical suit and respirator.
Last Christmas, McKinstray had another seizure. She said a serious sinus condition followed in January.
That was the last straw.
"Within a week of moving out of the home, my coughing disappeared."
Meanwhile, she continues to press Precedent to fix the home, which she estimates could cost $70,000.
McKinstray said Precedent has refused to buy back the house. She purchased the home through Precedent and argues that she didn't know until closing that McKinney built the house. She alleges that Precedent agreed to provide a warranty and should be held responsible.
Precedent's Fenoglio said his company corrected a number of problems with the house and "made numerous good-faith efforts to rectify any and all legitimate concerns presented by the buyer."
But McKinstray won't go inside. Peering through the windows is as close as she now gets to a dream home she thought would be the last place she'd ever live.
"I almost think of it as having a fire or tornado, except what we own is still sitting in it."

Top 10 States at Risk for Mold

2006-07-11T18:25:00.000-07:00

Western Real Estate in Danger Despite Dry Climate

Atlanta/July 10,2006/PRNewswire/—Contrary to popular belief, climate is not a good gauge for mold risk, according to a ranking of states at risk for mold contamination on commercial and residential property. Areas with dry climates like Nevada and Arizona made it to the top 10 while some Gulf States did not come close. Because mold damage is now excluded or severely limited on standard property insurance, concerns about the financial impact of a mold outbreak in a home or business continue to rise.
In the relative hazard ranking model developed by American Risk Management Resources (ARMR) and now being used by http://www.greenguard.org/ (GEI), "dry states" (Oklahoma, Kansas) intermingle with predictably high-risk mold zones (Florida, South Carolina) as high risk. But Texas beat them all:

Top 10 Relative Hazard Mold Ranking 1. Texas 2.95 2. Florida 2.50 3. Oklahoma 2.45 4. South Carolina 1.91 5. Nevada 1.90 6. Arizona 1.90 7. California 1.73 8. South Dakota 1.47 9. Tennessee 1.33 10. Kansas 1.25
Bottom 5 Relative Hazard Mold Ranking 1. Wisconsin .06 2. West Virginia .07 3. Alabama .13 4. Massachusetts .18 5. Minnesota .19
The GEI/ARMR relative hazard ranking model was developed by comparing mold losses on insurance claims with premiums paid on property and liability coverage in each of the 50 states. The hazard ranking model does not yet reflect claims associated with 2005 hurricanes that struck the Southeastern US. Wisconsin has the lowest relative mold loss rate, which is one-50th the loss rate in Texas based on the relative frequency of insurance claims.
"Mention mold right now, and the Gulf Coast comes to mind first, but the contamination on real estate hit by hurricanes was generally less significant overall than mold growth caused by inferior building materials or poor construction," said Carl Smith, CEO/Executive Director of GEI, a non-profit organization working with lenders and developers on mold risk mitigation techniques. "It's counterintuitive to think of shopping centers in Phoenix or casinos in Las Vegas as being at risk for mold, but it makes sense when you examine the causes of mold and problems often caused by modern building practices and materials."
According to Smith, many buildings and houses in dry climates develop mold issues when moisture is nurtured within walls and windows that are tightly sealed off from consistently hot conditions outside.
"Think of a glass of ice water sitting on your porch in 95-degree heat," said Smith. "Condensation quickly forms on the outside of the glass, but unlike your drink, condensation in a home or business has nowhere to run off so it builds up in the cavities of the structure, creating an ideal climate for mold contamination."As mold decreases property values, it could force many owners into default, forcing mortgages into a "non-performing loan" category, the worst-case scenario for lenders. That classification causes a negative chain reaction from ratings agencies, regulatory authorities and shareholders. "In the age of universal mold exclusions on insurance policies, everyone involved in real estate needs to diligently manage the mold risk," said David J. Dybdahl, head of ARMR, an insurance brokerage and consulting firm specializing in environmental insurance covering mold.
GEI recently announced a mold risk reduction program, based on a compilation of best practices that GEI has proposed as an American National Standards Institute (ANSI) standard. The proposed standard has been preliminarily reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and piloted with several building owners. Building consultancies review and assess properties based on the standard; once this is successfully completed, property owners can apply to GEI for certification under the Greenguard Mold Protection Program. Once a property is certified, it can be promoted to lenders, insurers and prospective tenants.
"Who is ultimately holding the financial bag for construction and permanent mortgages along with business loans to builders? The lender," said Smith. "The bank typically holds 80% or more of the risk in these loans (since 20% is typically invested by the borrower). Therefore, the smart lenders will work even faster to protect themselves."

Brick and Masonry Water Repellents

2006-06-06T21:59:00.000-07:00

Brick, stone and mortar all contain very tiny passageways that accept water. This can be a positive quality. However, depending upon exposure to the elements, temperature conditions, strength of the individual brick or block units, etc., it can can work against the long term durability of the masonry. The two main categories of colorless coating to apply to brick or masonry surfaces are film forming sealants and penetrants.

Brick & Masonry Water Repellents

Brick, concrete block, stucco and mortar can absorb massive quantities of water. In fact, bricklayers often cover brick and block piles on the jobsite to protect them from rain. The reason is simple. Brick and block have a property referred to as ‘suction’. This suction draws water from wet mortar into a brick or a block when it is laid. This, in turn, rapidly stiffens the wet mortar. This stiffening allows the bricklayer to continue to lay row after row of block and brick.

Those of us who live in areas that experience freezing weather can testify to the power of freezing water. Allow water to soak into a brick, let that water freeze, and BINGO, major problems soon develop.

Many people have experienced efflorescence (white salt deposits) on brick or block. Efflorescence is made possible by the tiny passageways in brick, block and mortar. Water travels right through a brick and dissolves the salts. These salts deposit on the surface of a brick after the water evaporates.

100 Years Ago

Many people have houses built from reclaimed or ‘used’ brick. These brick were often fired in low temperature kilns. The outer face each brick would vitrify (get hard), but often the core would remain relatively soft. Some bricks were harder than others depending upon their location within the kiln. It was an inexact science.

New brick are not all the same. Some new brick can be very soft. The clay used to make the brick can be of poor quality. The manufacturer may cut costs by reducing the amount of time the brick spend in the kiln. Quality control may be non-existent.

The point is this, in order to protect your brick structure, you may have to consider using some of the new clear masonry coatings. However, as in all things, there is a big difference between products you may be considering.

Sealers vs. Repellents

During the past 25 years there has been an explosion of products that can be used to ‘seal’ masonry surfaces. The problem is, some things should be sealed and others should not.

A true sealer will totally block the passage of water. In fact, it will most likely block it no matter which direction it is headed (into or out of the item being sealed).

There are two primary categories of colorless coatings that you might apply to brick or masonry surfaces: film forming sealants and penetrants.

A film forming sealant produces a thin, solid film on the surface. A penetrant, on the other hand, is absorbed into the brick or masonry.

Sealants

Sealants work great if you are trying to coat brick or masonry to prevent absorption of oil, paint (graffiti), chemicals, etc. They also do a fantastic job of keeping water from entering brick or masonry. However, they have serious drawbacks.

Sealants can inhibit, or stop, the ability of a brick or masonry surface to breathe. Because they form a film at the surface of the brick or surface, they stop trapped water or water vapor from escaping into the atmosphere. In colder climates, this can cause brick spalling (flaking) when water, trapped behind the sealant, freezes, expands and fractures the brick or masonry.

Film forming sealants can also trap dirt, discolor, change the color of the masonry or brick, and produce a sheen or gloss when applied.

Sealant Ingredients

Film forming sealants often contain one or more of the following principal ingredients: acrylics, stearates, mineral gum waxes (paraffin), urethanes, and silicone resins. All of these ingredients act like paint when they come into contact with brick or masonry. They simply ‘stick’ to the surface and form a film. Some sealants are so heavy bodied that they can bridge small hairline cracks.

On a microscopic level, sealants are ‘big’. Their large molecular structure does not allow them to penetrate into the small passageways in brick, block, stucco and mortar.

Often the principal ingredients of a sealant are listed on the product label. If you see any of the above things mentioned, you very likely are dealing with a sealant. Don’t be fooled by labeling that says “Sealant - Water Repellent”. Yes, sealers repel water, but you may want a product that breathes.

Penetrants

Penetrating clear coatings are, in almost all instances, the top performer. These products are excellent water repellents. They have a great ability to penetrate deeply, sometimes up to 3/8 inch into a brick or masonry surface.

Penetrants do not form a film on the surface of brick or masonry. Rarely do they change the appearance or color of the surface. They are able to penetrate because of their tiny molecular structure. These products coat the insides of the tiny passageways of the brick and mortar.

The primary ingredients of penetrants are silanes, siloxanes, or a blend of these ingredients. Note that these two ingredients look very similar to silicone. Do not confuse them!

Silanes have a very small molecular structure. They can penetrate deeply into masonry surfaces. Siloxanes have a slightly larger molecular size, but they also penetrate quite well. The interesting thing is that both of these compounds can chemically bond to the silica and alumina minerals often contained in brick, block, stucco and mortar. This bonding property and their ability to penetrate make for long service lives. Often these penetrating compounds can last in excess of ten years!

Be sure to read product labels. If the label doesn’t say what it contains, call the manufacturer and ask. Always ask for the technical department when calling.

Brick Veneer Homes

2006-04-16T19:12:00.000-07:00

I often hear people in the Houston area talking about "brick" houses, when in fact, during my twenty-plus years in the area, I have not seen even one brick home. There may be one or two of them around, but I haven't seen them.
And it's a good thing there aren't more of them, because they simply aren't all that great. I once owned a solid brick home in Phoenix -- solid (bonded) brick all the way through with plaster applied to the inside walls. The brick began to slowly heat up in the spring and didn't cool off until winter, which in Phoenix is not that cool. The house had one advantage: Termites could not eat its exterior walls.
In any case, we don't generally have brick homes in Southeast Texas. What there are instead --and there are plenty of them -- are brick veneer homes. Brick veneer is not structural; it doesn't support anything, including the roof. Brick veneer is, in fact, mostly cosmetic. What supports the roof structure is the wood frame wall that lives behind the brick veneer.
There are several advantages to brick veneer over bonded (solid) brick. First of all, the walls can be properly insulated. This is impossible with solid brick. Next, since there is only one thickness of brick (the veneer) on the outside of the house, the structure is lighter than one built of solid brick. Finally, given the propensity for things to shift and crack around our neck of the woods, brick veneer is easier to repair than its solid counterpart.
Brick veneer is, then, a very good system for exterior walls. It gives a home the appearance of having been built solid, yet it maintains the advantages of wood or metal framing. It is a very good system indeed . . . if it is done correctly. And here we go again.
Weep Holes, Air Circulation and Water Repellency
In a brick veneer installation, the very first course of bricks is laid upon the portion of the foundation or "beam" that is referred to as the "brick shelf" or "brick ledge." When inspecting a brick veneer home you will notice that this first course contains gaps every several bricks where the vertical mortar joint has been omitted. These gaps or omissions are called "weep holes."
Weep holes allow the space between the brick and frame walls to breathe. The holes also (ostensibly at least) allow any water that accumulates behind the bricks to escape. I'll tell you right now, though, if there is water accumulating behind your bricks, you're in trouble. Something is wrong.
Here is the usual problem with weep holes. Are you ready? They are almost always clogged with mortar which is dropped by the bricklayers as the wall is laid up. Let's look a little closer at how a brick veneer wall is arranged.
First off, carpenters frame the house, and then they apply some sort of sheathing to the exterior portions which will be veneered with bricks. The sheathing might be asphalt-impregnated fiber board or a paper product that incorporates a radiant barrier. Sheathing can also be made of other substances, including Styrofoam and exterior sheetrock (gyp-board).
When the bricklayers do their thing, they leave about a one inch space between the sheathing and the back side of the brick wall. They tie their wall to the frame wall using sheet metal straps called (appropriately enough) brick ties. This narrow space, along with the weep holes, is what keeps the moisture that accumulates in the bricks from transferring to the wood frame wall behind them. Air can circulate behind the bricks to dry them each time they become moist.
If you have ever built a brick wall, or if you have ever watched someone do it, you will have noticed that quite a bit of mortar drops to the ground in the process. Even the best masons drop gobs of mud. The mortar that drops on the face of a brick veneer wall causes no problem -- it can be cleaned up -- but how do you remove the mortar that drops behind the bricks, building up to the point that it completely blocks the weep holes? Well, you don't, because there is no way to get into that one-inch space to remove it. So in most cases, the weep holes are left blocked, and very little air circulates behind the bricks -- and moisture certainly can accumulate.
Now moisture in wall cavities, as I have stated in other writings, is not a good thing to have. It breeds mold, mildew and rot. Furthermore, it invites termites, since those busy destroyers of houses must have (in addition to wood) water.
It is possible to erect a brick veneer wall without dropping significant amounts of mortar inside the wall cavity, but I assure you this practically never happens. Bricklayers, like everyone else working on a house in our area (and other areas, as well), are in a hurry.
Bricks can, of course, be sealed with masonry sealer, and this might have to be done if the wall faces toward the prevailing winds and rain is constantly driven into it. But sealing the brick will not eliminate the moisture from behind it and will, in fact, inhibit the drying process. The wall should breathe.
What to do? You can't get into the cavity to clean the mortar out without destroying the structure. What a dilemma.
Well, hold onto your hat, because here it comes! Install special vents higher up in the brick wall, say four or five courses up where there is no accumulation of mortar. These can be installed as the wall is laid up, or retroactively. They are made to occupy the space of one brick and are simply held in place with caulking. Space them about six to eight feet apart along the length of the wall. Obviously, individual bricks will have to be removed if the job is done after construction, but this is a small matter.
Will you find these vents installed on your newly built brick veneer tract house? No.
Why? They consume extra time and effort during the course of construction. Time is money in our business.
Incidentally, you won't see the brick vents on a great many high-end custom homes either. Many people consider them unsightly. Of course, moldy brick walls are not that aesthetically pleasing either, in my estimation. You can obtain the vents where bricks are sold.
Expansion Joints
Just as concrete slabs and other masonry structures expand and contract with temperature change, so do brick walls (and the concrete brick shelves beneath them). On my little tract house the brick veneer wall segments are not very long, and I'm not concerned about expansion and contraction. Some of you folks, however, have homes completely surrounded by brick veneer, and either vertical expansion joints were provided by the builder or they should have been.
Many times, if there is an offset or turn in a brick veneer wall, an expansion joint can be provided there. Otherwise, joints will occur every twenty feet or so in the length of long straight segments. The joints are accomplished by actually stopping the wall, leaving about a one-quarter inch gap, and then commencing the wall. The joints are then filled with an expansion joint material that resembles common caulking. The material is usually colored to resemble either the brick mortar or the bricks themselves.
If you don't have the expansion joints, don't worry about it because there is nothing you can do about it. Nothing practical, that is. If shifting and cracking occur, repairs can be made. Remember, the brick isn't holding up your house; the frame wall behind it is. That is not by any means to suggest that shifting and cracking are desirable elements in home construction.
Certainly, if you are building a new home, or if you are having one built, you should prevail upon the builders to consider the things we've discussed here. I've been prevailing on them for years, but I don't seem to have a lot of pull.
John P. Bridge

The Benefits of Masonry Ordinances

2006-01-22T20:31:00.000-08:00

The Economic Benefits and Impacts of Masonry Ordinances on Communities
The following Research Summary is presented by the Taubman College of Architecture and Urban Planning at the University of Michigan for the Brick Industry AssociationIncreasingly, communities are considering passing or amending a zoning ordinance to include architectural standards as a method of ensuring quality design. The purpose of legislated standards is to create a level playing field for developers and builders, while providing an enforceable method of ensuring that development supports the long-term interests of the community. Municipalities across the country are exploring a variety of approaches including overlay districts, design and/or corridor guidelines, planned unit developments and masonry ordinances. Masonry ordinances require or recommend a fixed percentage of brick and masonry materials on commercial and residential structures within a given community.In November 2004, the Brick Industry Association commissioned the Taubman College of Architecture and Urban Planning at the University of Michigan to conduct a research study of masonry ordinances, with the purpose being to determine if masonry ordinances result in long-term benefits for a given municipality, while addressing the interests of both its citizens and members of its business community.Dr. Lan Deng, Assistant Urban Planning Professor, and Dr. Fernando Lara, Assistant Professor of Architecture conducted the research. Both are faculty members at the Taubman College of Architecture and Urban Planning at the University of Michigan. They examined four Chicago suburban communities to identify the impacts that the adoption of a masonry ordinance has on housing price and fiscal health of a community. They examined two municipalities in which masonry ordinances were in effect – Orland Park and Tinley Park – and two comparable communities without ordinances that are similar in both size and population – Hoffman Estates and Streamwood.Research Findings: AffordabilityMortgages in Orland Park and Tinley Park are similar to other suburban Cook County communities. For comparison, the owner cost for a home mortgage in an average suburb in Cook County is about 22.8% of their income – in Orland Park and Tinley Park, the owner cost of a home mortgage is about 22.2% of their income.In addition, the median rental cost in Orland Park and Tinley Park was found to be comparable with communities that do not have masonry ordinances. The research found that residents in an average suburban Cook County community spend about 24.4% of their income on rent, while in Orland Park and Tinley Park the percentage is approximately the same, with residents spending 23.40% and 24.10% respectively.Conclusion: The adoption of masonry ordinance does not result in a significant increase in housing costs compared to neighboring communities. Masonry ordinances do not affect the owner cost burden for a home mortgage or the rental burden for residents.Property ValuesThe research examined property values in each of the communities, with a focus on how property values were impacted after a brick and masonry ordinance was legislated. Specifically, researchers examined constant-quality property sales from 1990 through 2004.Researchers found that homes sold in Orland Park received a price that was 95% higher than comparable homes sold in Streamwood, Illinois, a community without a masonry ordinance. Homes located in Tinley Park received a price 128% higher than comparable properties in Streamwood. Researchers also examined the neighboring suburban community of Hoffman Estates and found that Orland Park homes received a price that was 79% higher. In Tinley Park, homes received a price that was 112% higher than Hoffman Estates.Conclusion: Masonry ordinances can increase the value of property in a community. Masonry ordinances have resulted in significantly higher property values than those in communities without a masonry ordinance. GrowthHaving examined the impact on affordability and home resale values, researchers next examined growth rates with a focus on whether masonry ordinances had any impact on reducing growth. Researchers found that the communities of Orland Park and Tinley Park continue to grow at a faster rate than the comparable communities studied that do not have masonry ordinances in effect. Orland Park and Tinley Park had a population growth rate of 43% and 34% from 1990 to 2000 respectively. The two comparable communities identified for the study, Hoffman Estates and Streamwood, had growth rates of 6% and 17% respectively from 1990 to 2000.Conclusion: The adoption of masonry ordinances results in continued quality growth, and does not restrict growth. In fact, researchers found that Orland Park and Tinley Park grow faster than most other suburbs in Cook County.TaxesThe final issue examined by researchers was the effect of masonry ordinances on the community tax base. Orland Park consistently outperforms other communities in Cook County in terms of sales receipts, while Tinley Park continues to experience a rapid increase in the amount of sales receipts. Comparable communities without masonry ordinances have experienced relatively slow growth in sales receipts.Researchers found that Orland Park and Tinley Park also have larger tax bases than over half of the other suburbs in Cook County based on equalized assessment value data. Because Orland Park and Tinley Park have a relatively large property and sales tax base, they are able to charge their residents lower municipal taxes and fees in order to pay for public services and community improvements.Conclusion: The adoption of masonry ordinances results in an increase in tax revenue for communities both through property taxes and sales tax receipts. This results in lessening the property tax burden for residents of the community. Research Methodology OverviewTo evaluate the economic benefits (or costs) of a masonry ordinance on communities the researchers investigated four primary issues that are of primary importance for communities. Each of the four issues follows along with an overview of the research methodology used to understand the resulting implications.Issue 1: Housing price effects – to what extent might the adoption of a masonry ordinance increase property value in the community? To address the issue concerning housing price effects, a hedonic price model based on over 20,000 housing transaction records has been created. The model examines not only how the value of a housing property is affected by the quality of its own construction material, but also the externality effects generated by the proximity to other high-quality properties as a result of the masonry ordinance.Issue 2: Local community impacts – to what extent might the adoption of a masonry ordinance expand the local fiscal revenue base and improve the quality of life for existing residents while also inhibiting new growth and "pricing out" low-income or minority households? To address local community impacts, the research compared social and economic changes in communities with masonry ordinances versus the non-masonry ordinance communities. The comparison was made based on four aspects: 1) differences in new housing construction and population growth rate; 2) differences in the community’s income and racial distribution; 3) differences in local fiscal revenue and expenditure; and 4) differences in crime rates and fire incidences.Issue 3: Local business impacts – to what extent might the adoption of a masonry ordinance increase the patronage of local retail stores and expand local sales revenue? To what extent might the adoption of a masonry ordinance promote a pleasant working and living environment for office workers and improve the lease likelihood and rental income of local office properties?To address and understand business impacts, researchers developed a multiple sorting interview to assess consumer preference for brick over other finishing materials. In addition, sales receipts generated by local retail stores were also compared communities with and without masonry ordinances. Method of MSA and Case Study Community SelectionIn order to choose the right Metropolitan Statistical Area (MSA) that could offer national relevance with minimal regional influence, the research team developed a “dissimilarity index” for all MSAs that are known to contain masonry communities based on 1990 and 2000 census data. To create this index, a series of social and economic variables, including population growth rate, distance away from the central city of Chicago, income growth rate, new housing construction rate, and employment growth rate, were evaluated against the national average trend. This led to the selection of the Chicago metropolitan area as the primary case study region given the finding that the development trend in Chicago is closest to the national average, which ensures national relevance for the study.Within the Chicago metropolitan area, a similar method was applied to identify case study communities. Orland Park and Tinley Park were chosen because they have had a masonry ordinance in effect for more than 10 years, while Hoffman Estates and Streamwood, two communities without a masonry ordinance, were chosen as the control group. Both Hoffman Estates and Streamwood are similar to Orland Park and Tinley Park in their demographic, economic, and housing profiles. This resulted in ensuring that the primary variable was the masonry ordinance, not other external factors.The research examined more than 25 years of data from the four identified case study communities, examining real estate transactions, tax records, census data, and sales receipts. The primary focus was placed on examining the community changes during the period of 1990 to present.

Beautiful Brick Mailbox

2006-01-20T17:15:00.000-08:00

We wanted to let all your customers know what a great job you did on our beautiful brick mailbox. After it was ran into last week, we thought a new one would never look as good as the original one did and we would just have to live with it. You selected a brick that is nearly the exact match as on our home and the custom address block really finishes it of. Our brick mailbox is better than ever.
It's nice to see someone take the pride in their work and is good at what they do.

We are glad we contacted you.

Sherry Thompson
Plano, Texas

Correct procedures for repointing brickwork?

2006-01-19T16:28:00.000-08:00

Repointing or tuck-pointing existing brickwork may be in order when mortar joints have softened, deteriorated or exhibited pronounced cracking. Generally, repointing involves carefully removing existing damaged mortar while not disturbing or cutting the existing brick. The joint is then repacked with mortar in layers.It is important to remember that the mortar should always have slightly less strength than the brick. Usually, the best mortar for use in repointing is what was in the wall to begin with. For most walls less than 70 years old, generally Type N or O mortar should be used when repointing. For structures older than this, it is best to try and determine what the original mortar consisted of and match that.

Can water penetrate brickwork?

2006-01-19T16:24:00.000-08:00

Homes have been built for hundreds of years with the knowledge that brickwork is not impervious to water. Water can migrate into brickwork. Brickwork handles this moisture by either having a cavity or separation between itself and the wall behind it or by being so thick that it acts as a barrier to the water.For a drainage wall, water travels down the backside of the brick in the air space and is then channeled out with flashing (metal or plastic sheet) sloped toward the face of the wall and weep holes (small openings or tubes) spaced every few brick at the mortar joints. These flashing and weep holes should be located above all doors and windows, below all window sills, and above the ground at the base of the wall. In a barrier wall, the mass of the brickwork keeps the interior of the wall dry by allowing water to evaporate before proceeding all the way through the wall. Only under prolonged exposure to sustained moisture or rain will a barrier wall exhibit moisture on the interior. When this occurs, the moisture then drains down the back of the wall into flashing at the base which channels it out through weep holes.The overwhelming majority of brickwork is properly detailed and constructed, experiencing no moisture problems. In the few instances where moisture is a problem, it can be attributed to poor construction or detailing in the brickwork. It is important to maintain a clean space behind the brick in drainage walls. Full contact between mortar and bricks and proper installation of flashing and weep holes are also important to ensure the highest water penetration resistance. Applying and maintaining a proper sealant around window and door openings also plays a vital role in keeping moisture out.

Arch Entry Repair

2006-01-18T17:11:00.000-08:00

I just wanted to let your readers know what a great job you did on our arch entry that had mortar cracks and a portion of the cast stone that was dropping down. You not only came out at the time and date promised, you did a great job in restoring our home to it's original apperance. The arch is the first thing people see as the arrive at our home and we're no longer ashamed to show off the entry. Thank you so much.

Kelly Hicki
Highland Village, Texas

Shower Tile Solutions

2005-04-28T14:37:00.000-07:00

Ceramic Tile Showers

John P. Bridge

"I wish I could have a tile shower without the grout joints. It’s impossible to keep them clean."

I suppose tile showers arrived in this country along with inside plumbing over a hundred years ago. The tiles then were imported, mostly from Europe but from other areas also. Back then the joints between the tiles were filled with portland cement grout, which was hard to keep clean.

Nowadays, most tiles used in showers (Standard four-and-a-quarter inch wall tiles) are made in this country from the same materials used to make ceramic figurines. There are many colors and surface textures available, but one thing has not changed over the years: The joints between the tiles are still filled with portland cement grout, which is still hard to keep clean. It’s not so much dirt as it is mold and mildew.

Throughout my three decades of building showers I’ve answered questions on how to keep tiles and grout clean hundreds of times. I’ve directed people to various products available at tile supply houses as well as at super markets and hardware stores. I can’t really tell you which specific products are best. People have had varying levels of success using a wide variety of cleaners.

There is one thing, however, that is guaranteed to keep your shower looking new, and it is the only thing you can do to accomplish this. Each and every time the shower is used, it must be completely dried out. Some people use a window washer’s "squeegee" to pull the water down from the walls and then use a towel to sponge it up from the bottom of the shower. At our house we simply use our worn out towels to do the job. When I shower I take two towels into the bathroom: one for me and one for the shower. I have seen showers built years before that still look brand new, having been maintained in this manner.

If you fail to wipe down your shower each time it’s used, two things will occur: the grout between the tiles will breed mold and mildew, making an ugly mess that’s hard to clean up; and minerals in your water will etch or pit the glaze on the surface of the tiles, making them impossible to clean as time goes on. Etching also occurs on your glass shower door (usually toward the bottom) if it is not dried each time the shower is used.

Now, what to do about a shower that has not been maintained in the above manner since it was new. Use cleaners that do not contain acids of any sort (This includes vinegar). Acids "clean" by removing desirable material, i.e., layers of grout from tile joints and elements of certain ceramic glazes from the surface of the tiles. Not good at all.

You need a good alkaline cleaner/stripper to remove built-up soap scum and mineral deposits. Tile Your World is a distributor of StoneTech Professional, and StoneTech makes a good cleaner. It's available in the Tile Your World Store: http://tileyourworld.com/catalog Get the tile and grout as clean as you can. Make sure to rinse everything thoroughly and allow it to completely dry.

You should also seal the grout and tiles with a penetrating tile sealer both when the shower is new and periodically through the years. Grout and ceramic wall tiles are not waterproof and will absorb quantities of water as the shower is used. Water is the element necessary for breeding mold and mildew. Sealing the grout and tiles will exclude much of this water from the tile installation.

There are many brands of tile sealers, all of which fall into two general categories: mineral based and latex or acrylic based. Use the latex based products. They won’t stink up your house like the mineral based ones will. If you buy your products (cleaners and sealers) at full line tile supply stores, you’ll have the best chance of obtaining the very best products available. The people who work at these businesses are much more knowledgeable about tile products than, say, people who work at home centers. Home center employees simply have too many products to know about.

Sealers do not last forever. A new breed of sealers are available that are purported to last up to fifteen years or so. Although I’m a little skeptical of that level of durability, I would certainly go for the product that will last the longest. In the past, sealers were only good for a year at most. It will come as no surprise to you that StoneTech makes sealers too. You can order them online at: http://tileyourworld.com/catalog . Aqua-mix also makes fine products.

Sealing a shower is easy. Make sure the shower is completely dry. It usually takes about five days for the moisture to evaporate from behind the tiles. The five days applies to all showers built with lath and mortar whether new or old. If your shower has only sheetrock behind the tile, the walls will usually dry in two days . . . unless the sheetrock is saturated, in which case you have problems that can’t be fixed with sealer. See Copperfield Showers. Shower floors can take weeks or months to dry out after having been in use for a period of time. You might want to forego sealing the floor in that case. In new showers, the floor can be sealed along with the walls, but never use an old fashioned sealer on a shower floor. The floor needs to "breathe.".

If your shower is tiled with large floor tiles which are dense to the point that they won't accept sealer, you should use a small piece of sponge to apply sealer to the joints only. Wipe the edges of the tiles with a damp cloth. Be advised that all floor tiles are not super dense. Some of them will accept the sealer. Do a little test. Dap sealer on a tile and notice whether the tile absorbs any of it. It it does, seal the tiles and grout. If no sealer is absorbed by the tile, seal the joints only.

Check the directions on the container. Generally, you wipe the product on with a sponge or rag, allow it to soak in for a minute or two, and wipe the excess from the surface with a damp rag or paper towels. To make sure you’ve done a thorough job, repeat the process the following day. Allow the shower to dry overnight before you use it.

It is imperative that you remove all sealer from tile surfaces before it has a chance to dry. Some of the water-base sealers are not "strippable" after they've dried. Pay attention.

For routine day-to-day cleaning of showers and other tiled surfaces, a pH neutral cleaner is recommended. Can you find the the link the Tile Your World Store above? I'll place one down below just in case you can't. :-)

So here’s the recap: Clean it, seal it, and wipe it down each time it’s used. Do this and most of your shower maintenance problems will be behind you.

Water Penetration Through Exterior Walls

2005-04-06T20:27:00.000-07:00

Weep holes provide the best protection against serious problems.

Rainwater penetration through exterior masonry walls to the interior space is causing serious problems around the country, even in some new buildings. Most contemporary walls are designed and built as a cavity system with a masonry veneer (clay brick, concrete brick, stone, etc.), air space, and backup materials.

This wall arrangement is normally designed under the assumption that some moisture could penetrate the exterior cladding, but should not migrate through the recommended 2-inch clear air space located between the masonry veneer and backup system. Any moisture getting through the exterior cladding should migrate down within the air space and drain out form the wall system through the weep holes. Most design guidelines and details focus on the limitation or avoidance of water penetration through the masonry veneer, rather than the functional and safe drainage of the cavity wall system.
I normally make several exterior masonry wall investigations per week, and in many cases, find problems. Many homes have no weep holes and water actually puddles up behind the walls until it is dissipated into the interior structure. These walls are typically on completed homes where weep hole problems are difficult to correct.

Rectangular or circular plastic tube weep holes are installed at base of the brick veneer with a proper spacing, but contractors forget to install, or the designer did not specify, a drainage material behind the masonry veneer. Moisture accumulates above the flashing line, but does not have any passage to the weep holes and out from the wall system. In many cases, mortar dropping block weep holes or the contractor filled the collar joint with mortar that completely plugs the weep holes.
I employ a non-destructive test method to check installed weep holes for drainage. I use a device consisting of a toilet shut-off valve with an adapter for a garden hose at one end, and a 3/8-inch diameter copper pipe on the other side. I attach the device to a garden hose and pour water into one weep hole. Water should drain out from the other weep holes. Otherwise, it is non-functional drainage system.
Unfortunately, far too often there are negative test results because water was not draining out through the weep holes.

Author’s preference
In my opinion, the most effective drainage material is a product from Mortar Net with a dovetail shape. Mortar droppings could accumulate at a lower or upper level of the product, but it eliminates the possibility of a complete horizontal blockage of the cavity.

Many wall systems are designed with insulation inside the cavity and a vapor/air barrier sandwiched between the extruded polystyrene insulation board and an exterior face of the wall backup system. This energy efficient wall system also could improve the wall’s water resistance with the introduction of cavity air space ventilation or a rain screen system.

Rain screen systems
Canadians started using rain screen systems in 1960s. The basic idea behind the pressure equalized rain screen wall system is to provide weep holes at the bottom of the masonry veneer and vents at the top within each floor. Air circulation through the cavity should equalize pressure on each side of the masonry veneer and minimize water penetration into the wall system. This approach should be used on projects located in areas that receive high volumes of wind-driven rain and when resistance to water penetration is a prime concern.
Brick Industry Association Technical Note 27, “Brick Masonry Rain Screen Walls,” contains valuable information for designers of this system. Besides functional weep holes and vents, the air space located behind the masonry veneer should be divided vertically into compartments, specifically on each side of the corner. Designers could follow locations of the clay brick veneer vertical expansion joints to locate vertical dividers inside the cavity.
Drainage material installed at the flashing line to protect weep holes from mortar droppings also should help air circulation through the weep holes. Masonry veneer cavity airflow testing was conducted at the Architectural Testing Labs in York, Pa., in April 2004.

Comparing Shapes
ASTM E 283-91 “Standard Test Method for Determining the Rate of Air Leakage Through Exterior Windows, Curtain Walls, and Doors Under Specified Pressure Differences Across the Specimen” was used to compare the dovetail shape cavity drainage material with horizontally straight versions installed into the cavity wall system with an even amount of mortar droppings inside the cavity. Each test panel was 5-feet wide and 10-feet high, with three open head joint weep holes at the base of the panel. There was 9% airflow reduction at the test panel with the dovetail shape cavity drainage material with the wind speed ranging from 15-50 mph.
The test panel with the horizontally straight cavity drainage material had a significant air-flow reduction ranging from 15% with a wind speed of 15 mph to 47.5% at 50 mph. The horizontally straight cavity drainage material had a continuous accumulation of the mortar droppings, which reduced airflow and circulation through the cavity.
My conclusion is that the best water-proofing of the exterior walls with a masonry cladding is to provide the functional drainage of the wall cavity system through the weep holes. The designer should specify the testing of the weep holes with a minimum of one pour of water (approximately 5 gallons) for each 10-feet length of the masonry veneer located above the flashing line. Water should be pouring out from every weep hole.

Maintain your most valuable investment

2005-03-22T14:44:00.000-08:00

Welcome to the Q&A forum for Master Masonry. This is the place to find answers to your questions about problems or concerns about your homes brick and mortar. Many people feel that a residential homes brickwork is indestructible and will never need attention. If your here, you've discovered this is not the case. Having a professional evaluate and repair your brick problem is your best move in maintaining your homes full value. Don't take the shortcuts of using a caulking gun and fill mortar cracks with plastics or silicone. Evaluations in most areas are free and you'll rest better with the piece of mind in knowing a professional has inspected you homes brickwork.

Brick repair before selling?

2005-03-14T13:25:00.000-08:00

Sir
We have a few areas on our home that need repair 2 stair step cracks on our side walls, a crack above our arch entry and several cracked brick at the corner of the garage thanks to our teenager driver. We are wondering if it's better to have them repaired before we sell our home, or to just let the new home owners deal with it.

Thanks for your help
Richard Dempsey
Plano, Tx

Sealing brick in water problem areas

2005-03-10T16:42:00.000-08:00

Dear Brick Mason: I have a problem with my brick veneer house. It develops leaks during wind driven rains. I can't seem to locate the source of the leaks. I purchased a brick sealer to solve my problem. I saw water repellents at the store, but the salesperson said they don't work as well. What do you think? Chris.

Dear Chris: Slow down! Do you still have the receipt for the sealer? You may need it. The sealer you purchased may actually harm your brick house. A water repellent may be a better choice.

The leaks you are experiencing are normal. Brick walls are by no means waterproof. Unfortunately, many homeowners think just the opposite. Bricks and mortar have a great capacity to absorb water. Both contain tiny passageways that actually suck water into the wall. Water can also enter through tiny cracks between the bricks and mortar.

This shine after you first apply the repellant goes away completely once the silane / siloxane water repellent dries.
Water leakage into older homes is rarely noticeable. These houses often were constructed using two or three layers of brick or block behind the face brick. As such, they can often absorb all of the rain water until such time as a storm passes. When the sun appears after the storm, the water is released back into the atmosphere through the tiny passageways. In your case, you only have one layer of brick. Once this layer has been breached, the water finds its way into your house.

Look again for cracks or small holes in the mortar. Pay particular attention to the small vertical (head) joints between each brick. This is the most likely place where water is entering. Rarely are these joints filled solid with mortar. The horizontal joints (bed) in your brick wall are usually filled solid and resist water penetration. If you find small holes or cracks, repair these before applying any coating.

There are two categories of clear brick coatings: film forming sealants and penetrating water repellents. Film forming sealants create a continuous barrier on the surface of the brick and mortar. They block the tiny passageways in the brick and mortar. Not only will they stop water from getting into the brick, but they also stop water from getting out. These compounds frequently contain acrylics, mineral waxes (paraffin), urethanes, and silicone resins.

Water repellents work in a different way. These products are designed to penetrate deeply into the brick and mortar. Some can reach as far as 3/8 inch into the surface. They coat the insides of the tiny passageways in the brick and mortar. However, the passageways remain open allowing the brick and mortar to breathe. These water repellents often contain silanes, siloxanes, or a blend of these chemicals.DEAR TIM: I have a problem with my brick veneer house. It develops leaks during wind driven rains. I can't seem to locate the source of the leaks. I purchased a brick sealer to solve my problem. I saw water repellents at the store, but the salesperson said they don't work as well. What do you think? B. N.

DEAR B. N.: Slow down! Do you still have the receipt for the sealer? You may need it. The sealer you purchased may actually harm your brick house. A water repellent may be a better choice.

The leaks you are experiencing are normal. Brick walls are by no means waterproof. Unfortunately, many homeowners think just the opposite. Bricks and mortar have a great capacity to absorb water. Both contain tiny passageways that actually suck water into the wall. Water can also enter through tiny cracks between the bricks and mortar..

This shine goes away completely once the silane / siloxane water repellent dries.
Water leakage into older homes is rarely noticeable. These houses often were constructed using two or three layers of brick or block behind the face brick. As such, they can often absorb all of the rain water until such time as a storm passes. When the sun appears after the storm, the water is released back into the atmosphere through the tiny passageways. In your case, you only have one layer of brick. Once this layer has been breached, the water finds its way into your house.

Look again for cracks or small holes in the mortar. Pay particular attention to the small vertical (head) joints between each brick. This is the most likely place where water is entering. Rarely are these joints filled solid with mortar. The horizontal joints (bed) in your brick wall are usually filled solid and resist water penetration. If you find small holes or cracks, repair these before applying any coating.

There are two categories of clear brick coatings: film forming sealants and penetrating water repellents. Film forming sealants create a continuous barrier on the surface of the brick and mortar. They block the tiny passageways in the brick and mortar. Not only will they stop water from getting into the brick, but they also stop water from getting out. These compounds frequently contain acrylics, mineral waxes (paraffin), urethanes, and silicone resins.

Water repellents work in a different way. These products are designed to penetrate deeply into the brick and mortar. Some can reach as far as 3/8 inch into the surface. They coat the insides of the tiny passageways in the brick and mortar. However, the passageways remain open allowing the brick and mortar to breathe. These water repellents often contain silanes, siloxanes, or a blend of these chemicals.

Film forming sealants can cloud and haze over. They can contribute to brick spalling (flaking) in colder climates. Water repellents rarely discolor brick. Because they soak into the brick and mortar, sunlight has a tough time breaking them down. Check the label on your product to see what chemicals it contains. If it is a film forming sealant, think long and hard before applying it to your brick.

Film forming sealants can cloud and haze over. They can contribute to brick spalling (flaking) in colder climates. Water repellents rarely discolor brick. Because they soak into the brick and mortar, sunlight has a tough time breaking them down. Check the label on your product to see what chemicals it contains. If it is a film forming sealant, think long and hard before applying it to your brick.